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Donna Maria's Handmade Beauty Connection
August 26, 2002


A Publication of The Handmade Toiletries Network
ISSN 1530-9630 | Vol. 3, Issue 33

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---> This Week's Sponsor: Celestial Body Aromatherapy

Discover The Wonders of Nature!

Celestial Body Aromatherapy now offers a 10% discount through September 2 to all HBN members!

100% natural skincare products containing essential oils and hydrosols that are organically grown and wildcrafted at our farm in the Missouri Ozarks.

Our hydrosols are steam distilled right here on our farm.

Essential oils come with profiles for easy reference and aromatherapy education.

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1. HBN Update: Welcome New & Renewing HBN Members & HBN Member News!
2. Handmade Beauty Trivia Question: win a sample of my wonderful Virgin Coconut Vanilla Oil, this week's recipe!
3. Create The Life You Love™:
The French "Aroma" Connection, Part III, by Polly Fletcher
4. New At MakeYourCosmetics.comVirgin Coconut Vanilla Oil
5. Handmade Beauty Product Review: Is There A PuMouse In Your House?


1. HBN Update: Welcome New & Renewing HBN Members & HBN Member News!

~ Welcome New & Renewing HBN Members!

The Village Soap Shop | Beth Newcomb | Ohio
* renewing member; luxury bath, body and home products to benefit mind and body...naturally

Roo's Garden | Melissa Roberts | Tennessee
* renewing member, an array of handcrafted natural soaps and other herbal creations

Sunshine Soapworks  | Cari Bourassa | Florida
* THE source for natural bath and body bases made from the finest ingredients available

Bicknese & Bicknese | Evelyn Bicknese| Missouri
* suppliers of raw materials and ingredients for crafting toiletries and candles

NYRAJU, Inc. | Juliette Samuel | Georgia
* handmade creams, bath salts, soaps and perfumes, plus lingerie to complete the mood

~ HBN Member News!

HBN Member Launches New Web Site

HBN member Lucija Kordic is pleased to announce the launch of her new Web site selling her handmade soap line. With bars like Marathoner's Mint, Citrus Avenue and Vee Vee-Licious Ylang Ylang, you'll want to have a cyber-sniff. Congrats Lucija!

HBN Member Announces Missouri Gathering

HBN Member Barbara Freeman of Autumn Windz is pleased to announce a Soap and Candle Makers Gathering in Jefferson City, Missouri, on September 28. For more information, click here. For more events and classes where you can learn to make your own toiletries (or refine your existing talents!), click here.

Learn more about our members and their exciting activities by visiting their Web sites through HBN's Online Member Directory!!


2. Handmade Beauty Trivia Question: Last week's winner was Shelle Higbee of Tustin, California. Shelle won 16 ounces of apricot kernel oil, courtesy of HBN member Essential Wholesale!

Last Week's Question: An organization named in 2001 is devoted to educating the public about olfaction and its importance to all areas of human psychology, behavior and quality of life.

Last Week's Answer: The Sense Of Smell Institute (SASI), formerly known as The Olfactory Research Fund. For more information about SASI, visit their Web site.

This Week's Question: How many members does HBN have in its online member directory as of 12:00 midnight on August 26?

The first person to respond with the correct guess (or who actually counts them in the directory!) will win a sample of my wonderful Virgin Coconut Vanilla Oil, this week's recipe!

Please read the contest rules here before submitting your entry.

While time does not permit me to respond personally to all entrants, the winner will be notified by email and their name posted at HBN's home page.


3. Create The Life You Love™: The French "Aroma" Connection, Part III, by Polly Fletcher

This week, I bring you the third in a 4-part series of articles by guest writer and HBN member Polly Fletcher of Life Balance. In the series, Polly shares with us keen insights into the wonderful learning adventure she enjoyed in France earlier this year. If you missed the first 2 articles, here they are:

Part I: Introduction To The French "Aroma" Connection
Part II: Grasse: The Perfume Capital Of The World

This week, Polly gives us the nitty-gritty on her trip to the distillery. Take it away Polly!!

THE CRUX OF POLLY'S ADVENTURE: THE DISTILLERY

There are several distilleries to visit in France. My choice was a family operation just north of Grasse, off the Napoleon highway, in the countryside of Caussols. It is a pristine location surrounded by a plateau of 4,000,000 square meters of wild lavender. There is no commercial agriculture or manufacturing in the vicinity to pollute the air or water. My destination is truly a place to be if you have a passion for aromatherapy and/or nature.

The distiller's passion for nature has been nurtured through extensive travels realizing that the world is a small & fragile place. With his wife and their two children, they wanted nature to be a part of their livelihood and well-being. They believe that plants (food) are critical to health and the key to resolving many aliments. The distillery reflects this conviction by producing the highest quality botanicals and making sure the location is in an environment free from synthetic agro-chemicals, a pollution free waste water system, and a natural all log building for distillation, lab, reception area and seminars. I realize there are many wonderful growers & distillers in France & the US who share some of these convictions, however there is something uniquely different about the distillery I visited that perfectly complements my goals as a skincare manufacturer.

Several things make my chosen distillery special:

1. They employ a new distilling method that I believe will have a positive influence on the way essential oils and hydrosols are obtained. (See more below.)

2. Almost every batch of essential oil undergoes the GCL (gas chromatography) test versus testing only a small sampling of each year's total harvest (as many distilleries do).

3. They fastidiously handle botanical products to reduce the proliferation of bacteria, especially with the hydrosols.

4. Most of the products handled at the distillery are Eco-Certified Organic.

5. They harvest wild lavender from around the distillery and utilize wild seed to start a crop versus bringing in other cultivars.

The new distilling method referenced above is called the Flash Détente Process and it is quite an extraordinary engineering feat. This method allows steam to be utilized at zero pressure there by creating a lower temperature (between 15ºC degrees - 50ºC) to protect the vital plant molecules from being burned or destroyed, yielding a product with greater vitality. Also, the distillation time is significantly reduced, thus allowing for harvested material to be distilled much more efficiently. The result is truly amazing.

We observed a small sampling of rose petals distilled with this new method. The distillation time took no more than 10 minutes for 20kg of petals. The collecting flasks automatically siphoned off the essential oil from the hydrosols. Because of the small sampling, only the hydrosol was produced for our demonstration. The plant matter, after distillation, looked soggy but not burnt. The finished product was a delightful experience to taste and smell.

My distillery has a special lab area where hydrosols, essential oils and other botanicals are stored and made ready to send out to the customer. Everything is made clean and sterile for transferring products into bottles, vials, and jars. The hydrosols are filtered at 0.2 microns in order to avoid proliferation of bacteria, and are then re-filtered for every order. They are stored in a temperature controlled room not to exceed 15ºC. Measurements and temperatures are always painstakingly precise.

Essential oils and other botanical products are measured in grams versus liters because the essential oils vary in density (frequently due to climate changes), and grams are a more precise and accurate measurement of the actual weight of the product so the customer can be assured of receiving the quality requested.

About The Writer: Polly Fletcher is the founder of Life Balance Hand Made Formulations. A member of HBN since 2000, Life Balance is based in Boston, MA and is committed to formulating skin care products that nourish the skin & inspire the senses. You may contact Polly with your more specific questions about the distillery at polylogx@aol.com.

Next Week: Polly's Parting Advice On Choosing Essential Oils For Your Handmade Toiletries


4. New At MakeYourCosmetics.com
:Virgin Coconut Vanilla Oil

Virgin Coconut Vanilla Oil is a delicious blend of wonderfully aromatic oils that will make you smell like the perfect combination of sweetness and sensuality. If you enjoy the aroma of a blend of warm vanilla and sweet coconut, rounded with orange and a smattering of patchouli for depth, this is the massage oil for you!

When you visit MakeYourCosmetics.com, it's easy to buy the ingredients you need to make your goodies by clicking on our Partner links:

Essential Wholesale: natural unscented cosmetic bases, pure essential oils, absolutes, carrier oils such as avocado, virgin coconut, sweet almond, jojoba, shea butter and specialty packaging supplies!

Bramble Berry, Inc.
over 80 different, fully tested fragrance oils (including the exclusive "Relaxing" and "Energy" blends), over 250 soap molds, essential oils and unscented bases.

SunRose Aromatics: pure essential oils (many organic), carrier oils and other aromatherapy products, each carefully selected for quality. Check out their Perfumer's Emporium.

The Scent Shack: fragrance oils and soap supplies. Fragrance oils are pre-tested in cold process, melt & pour soap, and candles, and test results are listed at the Web site. Scents tested by soapers for soapers!

Lynden House International , Canadian supplier of soap and candlemaking supplies such as fixed oils, perfumes, essential oils, molds, powdered milks, colors, pre-made bases, candle wax, wicks, embeds and more!


5. Handmade Beauty Product Review: Is There A PuMouse In Your House?

5 PuMouse Cosmetic Stones | $17.50
(or $3.95 for a single stone)

This week, I take a little diversion from my typical review of handmade beauty products to review an accessory that has recently joined my bath repertoire. I recently had the opportunity to try a PuMouse, a sort of mouse-shaped pumice stone designed to smooth calluses and rough areas of the feet. (Of course, I have neither ... HA!)

The first time I tried my PuMouse, I failed to follow the instructions, which clearly told me to soak my feet before using the PuMouse. Well, I was so excited to try my PuMouse, a lovely shade of green, and read through the instructions so quickly that I soaked both the PuMouse AND my feet. BAD!! Do not do this! The PuMouse works best and lasts longest when it is used completely dry. Soaking your PuMouse can significantly shorten its life! Lucky for me, I had another PuMouse (pink this time), and I used it properly. Actually, I did even better than that!

This past Saturday, I went for a long overdue and well-deserved pedicure. I asked my technician to use my PuMouse instead of the usual stuff they used (which I'm sure had touched hundreds of feet before!) I soaked my feet for a while in the foot tub with soothing jets and settled in for my treatment. The PuMouse worked beautifully and the technician commented on how nicely the mouse shaped stone fit into the palm of her hand. It is nicely contoured so its easy to hold onto, even when rubbing slippery feet! A few of the pumice particles came off in the foot tub but they were easily scooped up and tossed in the trash so they didn't go down the drain. And my feet felt wonderfully smoothed and pampered at the end of my treatment. I'll be using this in my shower regularly!

PuMouse's are great, and one of the best things about them is that they come in various colors. Aren't you tired of walking down the cosmetics aisle and seeing those regular old gray pumice stones? The PuMouse allows you to coordinate your bath decor with your PuMouse. How much more of a bath goddess could you be? Yellow, purple, green, orange, pink, blue ... and gray to for those plain vanilla types.

PuMouse's are available from HBN member BK Pumice. I have seen them in lots of gift baskets, especially those containing products designed to treat the feet. They add a nice tough, especially when the color coordinates with the other items in the basket. PuMouse's are available at wholesale from BK Pumice as well. So, is there a PuMouse in your house? If not, there should be!


Visit The Handmade Beauty Connection Archives.
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MakeYourCosmetics.com: ingredient encyclopedia & original cosmetics recipes
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Handmade Skin Care.com: secure online shopping for handmade toiletries products!
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Donna Maria, Editor-In-Chief, DonnaMaria@HandmadeBeauty.com
The Handmade Beauty Connection
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