Donna Maria's Handmade Beauty Connection
February 21, 2005

1. HBN Update: Welcome New & Renewing HBN Members!!
2. Feature Article: Caring For The Skin Of Tweens & Teens
3. Handmade Beauty University Classes Now Available Online!
4. Handmade Beauty Recipes Of The Week: Fresh Cucumber Vitamin Clay Mask and Fresh Cucumber Toner
5. Handmade Beauty Trivia Question: win some cucumber hydrosol
6. Handmade Beauty Product Review: Cocoa L'Orange Shea Butter Soap
7. Handmade Beauty Book Review: Sticks, Stones, Roots & Bones by Stephanie Rose Bird

Renewing Members!

Cactus & Ivy | Lisa Rodgers | South Carolina
* handcrafted bath, body and home fragrance products

Bitter Creek Candle Supply, Inc. | Doneen St. John | Wisconsin
* MP & CP soapmaking supplies, premium bath and body bases, oils, butters, cosmetic colorants, micas, glitters and more; locations in Texas and Wisconsin

Ambrosia Naturals | Michele Pepin | California
* handcrafted products designed to promote healthy vibrant skin and renew the body and spirit

BioChemicals International | Larry Moroni | Florida
* suppliers of exotic ingredients such as butters, oils, aloe vera and lotion base concentrate.

New Members

Adassa James Institute, Inc. | Maureen Dearborne | Nevada
* individual handmade customized aromatherapy skincare solutions

Body Blessings | Twanna Toliver-Maheia | New York
* spiritually inspired handmade beauty products

Annie's Soap Barn, LLC | Bobbie O'Brien | Texas
* handcrafted soap, and other bath and beauty sundries

Lady Hawk of Heartland | Blondell Lehocki | Florida
* handcrafted soaps, glycerin soaps, lotions, perfume oils, massage oils, lip balms, etc

HBN Members On The Move!

HBN member Jena Thompson of Daisy Blue Naturals is pleased to announce the birth of her son, Ethan River, born January 31, 2005, and weighing in at 6 lbs., 12 ounces, and 20 inches long! Congratulations Jena!

HBN member Danielle Fleming of HBN member DK Mind and Body is featured in Electric City online magazine. The story is complete with a fun (yet tame) photo of smiling Danielle enjoying her goodies in a jacuzzi tub. Great news Danielle!

Learn more about our members and their exciting activities by visiting their Web sites through HBN's Online Member Directory, now with 4 ways to search: (1) by state/country; (2) by member business name; (3) by keyword search; or (4) using our new alphabetical listings.

Lately I've been watching my 3-year old daughter (Vanessa) spend time assessing her appearance in the mirror more and more frequently. After I helped her put on a new outfit the other day, complete with black patent leather shoes and black velveteen slacks, I watched her go straight to the mirror to see how it all looked. She shrugged her shoulders slightly, as if to "feel" the new knit blouse. Then she turned her head from side to side to see how her hair looked. Then she shook her head "just so" to see how her hair looked when it moved. Oh, it took me back and I just marveled at how hard young people are on themselves and how early they begin to develop the ability to decide whether they are or are not satisfied with how they look.

While it's easy enough to fix most outfit issues -- just pick out a different one -- it's not nearly as easy to fix lousy skin issues. While that's usually the case for everyone, it's even more so for young adults, especially tween and teens who have to deal with the pressures of fitting in and inventing who they are as individuals all at the same time. So what's a tween to do? Acne is an inevitable right of passage! Unruly eyebrows abound! Dry lips haunt and taunt! This week, a panel of experts, Laura Craig, Kayla Fioravanti and Jimm Harrison,* help us to understand what makes tween and teen skin to special, and unwrap some natural ways to help teens deal with their unique skin issues.

1. Why is teen and tween skin so different from child and adult skin?

LC: During the onset of puberty the body begins to produce hormones called androgens. This acceleration in hormones causes oil-producing sebaceous glands to go into overtime, putting teen skin at particular risk for acne. Also, teens can sometimes have the misconception that acne is temporary during teen years and they will “wait it out”. This is not necessarily true, and can cause the acne to not be taken care of properly.

KF: Newborns, teens and adults all suffer from hormone related acne. Newborn acne is short lived because the hormones that support the acne pass from the mother in the womb to the baby. Shortly after delivery, the baby's body flushes out the hormones and the acne clears. it is not until the onset of adolescence that an increase in hormonal activity causes acne to reappear. In many cases, acne clears up in early adulthood when the hormonal system finally harmonizes itself. For many women, acne reappears midway through the menstrual cycle.

JH: The primary difference is hormonal and developmental. All skin at all ages will have differences that are dependent upon stages of development, environmental and lifestyle issues that change as we age, stress or psychological balance and genetics. These conditions have certain commonalities at specific ages and can be generalized but are really more individualized. During the teen and tween years the skin still has an ability to bounce back from damage and injury. The younger you are the more enhanced the repair capabilities will be, unless of course their is a genetic or diseased condition that prevents this. What may not be apparent to adolescents is the damage that is occurring at this age due to free radicals and inflammation that won't show until the later years in the form of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

2. What are the best at home treatments for teen and tween skin?

LC: For starters, start with what goes on inside the body. First of all, RELAX! Remember that 85% of teenagers have acne, so the more you stress and worry, the more likely you are to trigger the condition. Drink between 50% and 65% (those are not typos!!) of your body weight in water daily to help keep the body cleansed. For every cup of caffeine, drink at least twice that amount of water. As for topical preparations recommend cleansing with an anti-oxidant cleanser, toning with an alcohol free toner (to place the skin pH balance back to normal 4.5-5.5) and moisturizing every day. I suggest a gentle exfoliant product every 3 days and clay mask once weekly. Because acne is not caused by dirt, there is no need to over-wash. Two gentle washings a day with lukewarm or cool water is sufficient. Anything more can leave healthy skin dry and irritated, triggering the glands to produce even more oil. Always cleanse before bedtime and after vigorous physical activity when perspiration on the skin creates an attractive environment for the bacteria that causes acne to develop. Do not pick acne as it can cause more inflammation and permanent scarring. Finally, don’t buy into the fallacy that sunbathing helps acne. While it may temporarily dry up some of the oil, the drying factor could actually encourage the skin to produce more oil -- not to mention increase you chances of skin cancer, a condition to which acne is far more preferable.

KF: Acne is an inflammatory disease that can be exacerbated by chemical and fragrance laden products so try to use natural, toxin free, chemical free skincare products. The body treats chemical as though they are foreign invaders. Choosing natural products and ingredients allows the skin to breathe better and supports the normal, balanced and healthy production of sebum, the skin's natural oil. Making products at home is a great way to control what goes on your skin. I recommend Donna Maria's Making Aromatherapy Creams & Lotions" for this purpose. Also, try my recipes for Fresh Cucumber Vitamin Clay Mask and Fresh Cucumber Toner.

JH: My recommendations are the same for everyone of all ages, with slight variations, specifically, using organic and natural botanicals internally and topically. Simple formulations have a natural ability to treat and balance all skin types at all ages. While I recommend that people seek out natural ingredients in natural products, I also suggest caution as many products labeled "natural" are not so at all. At the same time, I am dissatisfied with and do not recommend synthetics and "synthetic naturals" as they have no history of development or harmony with the human body.

For a basic program, I suggest a twice a day regimen of gentle cleansing and moisturizing. Cleansers should not disrupt the lipid barrier of the skin. For this reason, I do not as a rule recommend soaps made with lye because they can be too alkaline and extremely harsh on the face. Cleansers made with filtered water, yucca and olive oil are good, as well as ones made with new and gentle synthetic surfactants such as decyl polyglucose and those that have the common name "coco-protein". Contrary to popular belief, cleansed facial skin should not feel "squeaky clean" and harsh cleansers that product this feeling often break down the skin's protective barrier, aggravating the conditions that they are meant to eliminate. I recommend avoiding so-called "antibacterial soaps" as they destroy the natural protective "flora" of the skin.

A moisturizer should be light and penetrate and harmonize with the skin's lipid barrier. A day moisturizer should provide protection and maintenance, so should be made with anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatory ingredients and lipids. Essential oils in a base of fatty acid oils, such as olive oil, rosehip seed oil and non-GMO soy lecithin are nice. While I have heard cautions against using rosehip seed oil on oily skin, my experience has not warranted this caution. However, care should always be given to choosing excellent quality high end oils and using them sparingly as an ingredient. Too much of even a good thing can cause irritation.

3. Should treatments differ depending on weather conditions?

LC: No, not if you already use a moisturizer during the summer.  It’s always recommended to use a moisturizer to protect against the winter wind.

KF: If you have a healthy, balance skincare regime, there's no need to vary it with the seasons. Always be careful not to expose unprotected skin to the sun in an attempt to reduce acne. This overexposure causes inflammation and makes the skin produce even more oil. 

JH: The skin has a homeostatic function in regulating the body temperature. In warmer temperatures, the activity of the skin is different than it is in colder temperatures. My recommendations of organic and natural for skin maintenance remain the same regardless of temperature or season, but application methods may be adjusted to account for such things as environmental differences, seasonal allergies, etc. In colder weather, the skin may become dehydrated, especially when confronted with the dry heat of winter rooms. In such cases, it may help to apply a heavier botanical emollient to the skin such as by altering the usual routine to include both a layer of day cream and a top layer of an emollient night cream. In summer, or hot climates, the body regulates temperature by releasing water through the sweat glands, providing moisture to the skin and thus requiring less externally applied moisturize. The excess water and oils of the skin are utilized to carry the smaller amount of moisturizer protection across the surface. Don't forget UV protection from exposure to the sun, in both summer and winter!

4. What about teen/tween male skin -- any differences there?

LC: Androgens is a male hormone, so even though both male and female develop androgens during puberty, males will produce more. Thusly, the male teenager tends to have worse acne.

KF: Yes. The male hormone (androgens) make teenage boys more prone to acne than girls. While the ovaries and adrenal glands do produce androgens, estrogen (the female hormone), binds up testosterone and reduces the production of androgens. This results in less acne in teen girls than in teen boys.

JH: Males produce androgens, as do women in smaller amounts, and tend to have more breakouts as a result at these ages. Males also develop facial hair. At puberty the follicles may not be fully developed and hairs may become trapped beneath the surface causing inflammation and more breakouts, a condition called "keratosis pilaris".

5. Many people think that oily skin needs no moisturizer -- is that true?

LC: Not necessarily. Oily skin is caused by sebaceous glands working overtime. Our skin has something called an “acid mantle” where our sweat and oil meet to protect our skin from “free radicals” (pollution, smoking...environment as a whole). The more exposed our skin is to a dirty environment, the harder our oil glands produce oil to give to the acid mantle. Moisturizers act as a barrier between our skin and these environmental factors, thus aiding the skin so that it does not have to produce unnecessary and/or excess oil.

KF: All skin needs moisturizers. Many people with oily skin use drying skincare products which can cause the skin to product extra oils to make up for the damage being done by the stripping products. Well nourished and moisturized skin creates a natural and healthy cycle that leaves the skin balanced.

JH: Oil loves oil. I highly recommend oil on oily skin. There are certainly preferences for specific oils, but generally, it is the quality of the oil used that matters. Use only cold expeller pressed oils, avoiding solvent extracted or hydrogenated oils. (Natural ingredients, like oils and essential oils, often get blamed for negative results, when in reality the problems arise due to poorly processed naturals or "synthetic natural" additives.)

Botanical fatty acids, contained in vegetable, nut and fruit oils, can soften hardened sebum. This, combined with the anti-inflammatory action of the fatty acid or an essential oil, will help clear the follicles and prevent acne. This is another situation where application methods, not ingredients, are shifted. Oily skin requires less product, where the natural sebum can be used to spread small amounts of treatment oils or moisturizer across the surface. Oily skin can be dehydrated, especially from the use of harsh detergent cleansers that strip the natural lipid barrier. The lipid barrier is not the same as sebum, and can be replenished and protected with the use of appropriately selected botanical oils.

Reduce stress and oil production may be reduced. Stress deserves a lot of attention in regards to oily skin and acneic conditions. Inflammation is a direct cause of acne and oily skin is a genetic condition that may be aggravated by increased stress. Essential oils can be included in the skincare regime to reduce inflammation and the stressors that may be causing it.

6. What about alcohol in toners for oily skin -- is that good?

LC: Don't use alcohol-based products. Alcohol strips the top layer of the skin and many astringents contain alcohol which can cause dryness and irritation. Again, this can prompt excess oil production and more blemishes.

KF: Toners should be used to normalize the pH balance of skin, close pores and remove debris -- not to dry out the skin.

JH: Alcohol is good, alcohol is bad. It is not a good idea to use alcohol on the skin to reduce sebum for the same reason it is not good to use harsh, strong cleansers. They breaks down the protective lipid barrier of the skin. Alcohol is good when it is used in products as a preservative, but not as a treatment in a toner to reduce sebum.

7. What essential oils do you recommend as best for oily skin?

LC: lemon, tea tree, orange, grapefruit

KF: Lavender and tea tree are the most common and useful oils for acne and are superior due to their anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and antibacterial properties. German and Roman chamomile, helichrysum and lavender are good for long term use to prevent acne scars and pitted skin. Juniper, petigrain, cedarwood, sandalwood, grapefruit, rosewood, ylang ylang, frankincense and cypress are useful for oily and congested skin. Rosemary and grapefruit are natural astringents that encourage the skin to balance its own oil production without causing dryness. For women, clary sage, rose, jasmine, geranium and lavender help the body minimize the acne which often reappears midway through the menstrual cycle.

JH: Everyone is different, and these differences can only be personally accounted for in an individualized treatment arena. While there is no "catchall list," in general, I recommend the fruit oils like orange, lemon and grapefruit, plus oils like cypress, juniper, ylang ylang and lemongrass all of which are known to address oily skin conditions. Essential oils that are good for any skin type, including oily, include palmarosa, lavender, geranium, cape chamomile, cedarwood, rosemary (verbenone chemotype), everlasting, thyme (linalol chemotype) and rose. An anti-inflammatory formula should include hylichrysum (the best), German chamomile and cistus. While all essential oils have antiseptic activities, these are especially powerful in this regard: tea tree, eucalyptus (radiata and globulus), green myrtle and niaouli. Since stress often induces acne, oils to reduce stress, such as neroli, clary sage, bergamot, mandarin and mandarin petigrain, are also helpful. It is important to point out that these categories of essential oils and what types of conditions they help must be viewed in the context of a whole product, which include ingredients in addition to the essential oils. The effectiveness of even the best essential oil can be compromised if it is formulated with other ingredients that are unsuitable for one reason or another.

* Laura Craig is a licensed esthetician at inner glow skin spa and HBN member Essential Wholesale. Kayla Fioravanti is the chief formulator and certified/registered aromatherapist at HBN member Essential Wholesale. Jimm Harrison, co-owner of HBN member Spirit of Beauty Nutritional Skin Care, is a licensed cosmetologist and aromatherapist who has delivered classes and workshops on the topic of holistic beauty and esthetics at universities and schools including Bastyr University, Brown University, Harvard University and the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute. Jimm is currently working on a comprehensive scientific aromatherapy text and reference to be published by Milady/Delmar publishing next year.

Fresh Cucumber Vitamin Clay Mask and Fresh Cucumber Toner are designed especially for oily, tween and teen skin. Check them out!

When you visit MakeYourCosmetics.com, it's easy to buy the ingredients you need by clicking on our Selected Supplier links:

Essential Wholesale: pure essential oils, over 200 cosmetic bases, hundreds of carrier/fixed oils such as meadowfoam, cranberry, jojoba and shea butter plus a new Short Run Private Labeling Program!

Bramble Berry, Inc.: over 105 different fragrance and essential oils (including their exclusive "Energy" and "Relaxing"), all soap tested, soap molds and unscented soap bases!

SunRose Aromatics: pure essential oils (many organic), carrier oils and other aromatherapy products, each carefully selected for quality. Check out their new Perfumer's Emporium.

The Scent Shack: fragrance oils and soap supplies. Fragrance oils are pre-tested in cold process, melt & pour soap, and candles, and test results are listed at the Web site. Scents tested by soapers for soapers!

From Nature With Love: over 1,600 ingredients and supplies, including cosmetic ingredients, spa supplies, bath accessories and packaging supplies!

Last Week's Question: I am the child of Venus, the Roman god of love and beauty. I am a winged creature who flies around on Valentine's Day (and on other days when you're not looking) pointing my magical bow and arrow at your heart to inspire feelings of love and romance. Who am I?

Last Week's Answer: Cupid

This Week's Question: What human hormone produced by males and females is produced to a greater degree in males, thus contributing to males being more prone to acne than women?

Be the first to correctly answer this week's question and win some cucumber hydrosol.

Please read the contest rules here before submitting your entry. Put "TRIVIA CONTEST ANSWER" in the subject line or your answer will not be considered.

While time does not permit me to respond personally to all entrants, the winner's name will be announced in the next newsletter!

Cocoa L'Orange Shea Butter Soap
4 oz. | $6.00

I love handmade soap! There's no two ways about it. I mean, I listen to people say that soap is not good for your skin. Well, while I'm hardly close to the end of my life expectancy, I have lived several decades, the last of them using only handmade soap on my body and often on my facial skin as well. I guess I'm hardly objective since I make soap myself. Still! I love handmade soap and I don't think my skin has suffered for using it day in and day out. Having said that, once in a while a handmade soap comes along that is just -- well -- special. And this is one such soap.

Cocoa L'Orange Shea Butter Soap is positively decadent. I mean, look at the picture! Swirls of real chocolate in a base of delicious golden toned soap made with olive oil, coconut oil, virgin coconut cream, shea butter, cocoa butter and jojoba oil, plus neroli and orange blossom wax to boot. Who said you couldn't use exquisite oils in cold process soap?!! And if that combination doesn't turn you on, perhaps you'll enjoy Chocolate Over Roses, made with the same base but perfected this time with chocolate over pink soap make with real rose absolute. Heaven I say!

You can get your own fragrant treats like these, plus Mandarin Walnut, Lemon Poppyseed, Lemon Oatmeal, Chai Tea, Bay Leaf, Patchouli Geranium (stock varies) by emailing Marsha at Pure Harmony.

If you like using herbs, flowers and oils to enhance your self-care experience and your life in general, you'll be delighted by the recipes in this book. The fact that the author also includes her unique perspectives combined with well researched references to African history, is a rare and special bonus. Enjoy the review of this book and its recipes like Life Me Up Pine Floor Wash, Peace Oil and Soul Heal Soap.

Visit our suite of Web sites serving the handmade toiletries industry:

HandmadeBeauty.com: the leading industry trade organization
MangoButter.com: 450+ suppliers of raw materials and packaging, updated weekly!
MakeYourCosmetics.com: ingredient encyclopedia & original cosmetics recipes
DonnaMaria.com: sound advice for your small business, Create The Life You Love™